We landed in Heraklion early in the morning, picked up our rental car, and headed straight to our accommodation in Ferma. With most of the day still ahead of us, we asked a local for a recommendation of a nearby attraction that would be worth visiting. The answer came immediately: the Melonas Waterfall.
It sounded like the perfect first excursion. We opened Google Maps, searched for the waterfall, and set off full of anticipation. What followed was one of the most entertaining navigation adventures of our entire trip.
Following the Wrong Roads
At first everything looked straightforward. We followed paved roads through the hills above Ferma. Then the roads became narrower. The asphalt turned into rougher surfaces, then into gravel tracks, and eventually into routes that looked more suitable for goats than rental cars.
Again and again, we found ourselves reaching dead ends, steep rocky sections, or paths that simply became too narrow to continue. Several times we had to turn around. On more than one occasion we were forced to reverse for surprisingly long distances because there was nowhere wide enough to manoeuvre.
The funny part was that we were clearly not alone. Throughout the morning we met other tourists doing exactly the same thing. Different languages, different nationalities, different rental cars — but one common goal: reaching the Melonas Waterfall. Nobody seemed to be succeeding.
The Hidden Clue
Eventually we noticed a small sign indicating that the waterfall was not accessible from the route we had been following. Around the same time, online discussions pointed us toward a different starting point. The advice suggested taking a small side road behind a large curve near the bay on the western side of Ferma.
Armed with this new information, we tried again. Sure enough, we found a completely different access road. It was actually signposted, but many of the signs in the area were difficult to spot. Some were hidden behind vegetation, others were weathered, dirty, or partially damaged.
As we drove along another stretch of gravel road, we suddenly recognised a familiar rental car ahead of us. Two travellers we had already encountered earlier on the wrong mountain tracks were still pursuing the same mission. It felt like all of us had joined an unofficial expedition to locate the true starting point of the hike.
The Walk to the Waterfall
Eventually we reached the trailhead and parked. A sign indicated the distance to the waterfall. At first glance we thought it said 700 metres, but a closer look suggested the first digit had become difficult to read. The walk felt considerably longer than expected, which made much more sense.
The trail itself was enjoyable. Warm summer air drifted through the landscape while cicadas provided a constant soundtrack from the surrounding vegetation. The route offered beautiful views across the hills and coastline. One particularly memorable section led through an old irrigation channel that appeared to have been built many years ago. Following this channel gave the walk an almost adventurous atmosphere and made us feel as if we were tracing part of the region's history.
Step by step our expectations grew. After so much effort, so many wrong turns, and so much gravel road, we imagined a spectacular waterfall waiting around the final corner.
A Surprise at the End
When we finally reached the waterfall, the scene was not quite what we had imagined. Instead of a powerful cascade, only a few drops of water trickled down the rock face. The pool below was completely dry.
At first we were surprised. Later we learned that the season plays a major role. During the hot summer months, when rainfall is extremely limited, the waterfall can shrink dramatically. Locals explained that conditions are very different in spring and sometimes later in the year, when significantly more water flows through the gorge.
Even though the waterfall itself was disappointing on this particular day, we did not regret the trip. The search, the unexpected detours, the shared confusion with fellow travellers, and the scenic hike became the real highlight. Sometimes the story surrounding a destination is more memorable than the destination itself.
Practical Tips
- Do not rely blindly on your navigation app when approaching the Melonas Waterfall.
- Look carefully for local signs near the access road outside Ferma.
- Wear suitable footwear, especially if you visit during the hotter months.
- If seeing a flowing waterfall is important to you, consider visiting outside the driest part of summer.
Our first day on Crete taught us an important lesson: sometimes getting lost becomes the best part of the journey.
