After a relaxed breakfast from 9:30 to 10:30, we deliberately slowed the morning down. We spent time at the hotel, thinking about how to fill the hours before our planned beach visit at around 15:00. By then, we had learned that the sea often feels warmest later in the day, and we wanted to save our swim for that moment.
So we looked for something nearby that would not take the whole day but still feel like a small discovery. That is how we found Kafeneio, a café and taverna in Agios Ioannis, a village above Ferma. We had already tried to go there the day before, but arrived too late and found it closed. This time we set off earlier, curious whether the place would live up to the promise of a mountain village lunch with a view.
The Road up to Agios Ioannis
The drive from Ferma was much easier than some of our previous Cretan road adventures. The road was paved, relatively new, and pleasant to drive. Still, it had the familiar southern Crete feeling: on one side, the mountain rose steeply; on the other, the road dropped away dramatically toward the landscape below.
At around 32 degrees Celsius, the air outside was hot, bright, and dry. The sky was an almost unreal blue, washed clean by the strong wind. Along the route we saw signs pointing toward monasteries and churches. Some appeared suddenly at the roadside, as if the next small path might lead to a hidden place of worship. At irregular intervals there were benches beside the road, simple resting places in a landscape that felt both open and steep.
From the approach road, Agios Ioannis could already be seen clinging to the hillside. The village does not sit gently in the landscape; it seems to hang from the mountain. That impression became even stronger as we got closer. There was even a house along the way that seemed to narrow or partly block the road, a very Cretan reminder that streets here often grew around life rather than the other way round.
A Windy Village with a Sea View
When we arrived, we found a parking spot near the café. As so often in Crete, we parked against the direction of travel, which seemed completely normal here. Nobody appeared surprised by it, and the village had the relaxed practicality that makes small places on the island feel immediately familiar.
The wind was strong when we stepped out of the car. It moved through the village in powerful gusts, sometimes reaching around 50 kilometres per hour at the peak. Yet the temperature remained warm, and the wind made the bright midday heat feel more alive than oppressive. It rattled lightly around corners, moved through plants, and carried the distant smell of sun-warmed stone and dry herbs.
At Kafeneio we chose a table with a view. From the restaurant terrace, we could look out across the slopes and down toward the sea. It was exactly the kind of setting that makes you forget that this was originally just a way to pass time before going to the beach. We ended up staying for almost two hours, mostly because the view was too good to leave quickly.
Small Plates, Wine and a Long Table Next Door
We ordered what had already become a familiar and much-loved pattern for us on Crete: a carafe or bottle of red wine, a large bottle of water, and a selection of starters to share. The table slowly filled with small plates, colours, textures, and the smell of garlic and olive oil.
There was tzatziki, cool and creamy, with the freshness of yoghurt and cucumber. We had a potato mash with garlic and oil, simple but deeply satisfying. There were cherries served with sheep's cheese, a combination that felt both sweet and salty, soft and sharp. Spinach pies arrived with delicate pastry, followed by cheese balls and small pieces of pork called siglino, which reminded us a little of tiny pieces of Kassler in appearance.
For dessert, we were served melon and a scoop of ice cream. It was not a heavy ending, just enough sweetness after the savoury plates. The whole meal felt unhurried, generous and very much connected to the place.
Next to us sat an American travel group at a long table. Their voices carried clearly in the wind, and we could hear the accent before we even looked over. It added to the atmosphere: our small family lunch on one side, a larger group meal on the other, everyone facing the same blue horizon.
Practical Tips
- The road to Agios Ioannis from Ferma is paved and manageable, but expect steep views and narrow village sections.
- Arrive before the late afternoon if you specifically want to eat at Kafeneio, as small village tavernas may not always match your expected timing.
- Parking near the café was possible during our visit, and informal parking habits seemed normal in the village.
- Card payment was available when we visited, but in small villages it is still wise to carry some cash just in case.
What began as a way to fill the time before swimming became a two-hour lunch above the sea, with wind in the village, wine on the table, and Crete stretching out below us.